Hi Will and everybody,
 
There are also low-temperature composting proponents.  I'm one.  What I get is less nutrient loss, no seed loss, and zero pile maintenance.  No turning, no temperature measuring, no watering.  The final product is actually nutrient-superior to high-temperature composting.  And full of worms.
 
What's been working for years here is to let plants I want go to seed, uproot anything I don't want and head them to the compost pile.  When I spread compost, I'm seeding my beds (which already had plant-broadcast seed).  No tilling needed or advised, just spread compost.  Then harvest.
 
Compost tea works, but I don't bother.  No need that I can see.  Just like saving (or purchasing) small seed and planting, no need.  I've found that saving select large seeds will ensure specific crops I want.  Might not have had a substantial fall snow pea crop otherwise.
 
For winter, in our 4166 heating degree-days, I place recycled sliding door glass (singles) over the beds after removing all tall plants.  We get continuous harvest until spring.
 
That's the extent of my effort, providing a substantial part of our diet.  What I don't get are tidy mono-crop beds.  One learns quickly which veggies grow well with which.  Cull what you don't want, just like any weed.  You are absolutely correct, healthy plants don't have insect/disease problems.    Even potatoes are bug-free here without any help from me.  Compost is the magic.  No bug deterrent required. 
 
If you have specific compost needs, Other Homes and Garbage ISBN 0-87156-141-7 contains the information necessary to select your compost pile ingredients.
 
Low-temperature composting requires some manure added to speed things along, similar to MEN's Pain-style compost pile when they didn't have the proper-sized chips.  For veggie-growing, you really want to know what's in that manure you're composting. 
 
Some broad-leaf herbicides are still active long after the trip through the animal.  Here, horse manure is plentiful, free for the hauling.  Wormers fed to horses don't survive low-temperature composting.  I make efforts to learn about the hay fed to the horses.  Adding manure directly to your beds is risky, I don't.
 
If I can get the Department of Transportation to bring a load or few of wood chips here, they go into the compost.  If not, my compost is mostly green material plus manure, adding whatever leaves are convenient. 
 
As my house is self-heated/cooled (PAHS), without my input, we have no need of compost pile heat.  Which was a question I needed to answer about creating a Pain-style pile.  For me, the answer was helping solar in my lumber kiln.  Particularly summers, when trees shade the kiln.  Chippers are under consideration, but not multiple saw blades.  I've got a nearly limitless hardwood supply and large yellow machinery.